One of the best parts of a Basque trip is San Sebastián’s old town, packed wall to wall with pintxos bars. But some of the “world-class” legends are tucked away in the surrounding countryside.

Elkano is a must-visit — in the beautiful little fishing village of Getaria, about 30 minutes from San Sebastián. The god of charcoal-grilled whole fish that food lovers travel the world for, and No. 24 on the 2025 World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

The spark for a cooking technique usually comes from the ingredient itself.

The story of Elkano’s whole grilled fish began when a fisherman once brought in a fish so large it wouldn’t fit on the grill — so Pedro sandwiched it between two grills instead. What he discovered by accident was that the skin and bones acted like armor, locking the flesh and gelatin tightly together and preserving the flavor to the fullest.

And that’s how the world-famous whole charcoal-grilled fish was born.

His son Aitor later took over the restaurant and refined the philosophy further — minimum intervention, maximum authenticity. He built closer relationships with fishermen, tracking seasonality, fishing methods, and the handling details after the catch, absorbing all that complexity outside the kitchen.

Which is exactly why the cooking itself can afford to be so minimal. Less seasoning, less masking — just charcoal and the ingredient, left to say everything themselves.

Spider Crab, Cauliflower

Smoked Sea Bass

Elkano has a full tasting menu (€196), but à la carte is entirely an option too. The kitchen adjusts each dish’s portion and the size of the fish based on the number of guests and dishes ordered.

Even though it’s very much a destination restaurant, ordering here is still an exercise in slowing down.

“Take it easy, no need to order too much — our doors are always open to you.”

The classic combo — fish jaw, half a portion of shrimp, and a whole fish — is just right for two.

Cod Jaw

The house specialty, cod jaw, is served two ways, each interpreting this gelatinous cut through a completely different technique: fire, and emulsified sauce.

The charcoal-grilled version arrives with a light stickiness and slip on the palate, firm yet springy — an unmistakable collagen texture. The sea flavor is concentrated but never fishy or heavy, spreading slowly through the mouth along with the gelatin, leaving a clean, lingering sweetness.

The pil-pil version is richer and thicker. The emulsified oil draws out the fish’s own gelatin, rounding out the flavor into a texture that glides continuously across the tongue.

It genuinely takes a small, humble-looking cut and blows up its natural delicacy, char, and gelatinous texture to the fullest.

Small Scarlet Shrimp

Early-spring baby shrimp, served either raw or lightly grilled — your choice.

Cooked to about 50%, arriving bright orange on the plate. Pull off the head, peel back the legs, and you’ll find deep red roe. The flesh has a light, crisp firmness, the sea flavor clean and clear, sweetness bursting in the mouth. The char left by the coals wraps around it like a thin thread — light, and lingering.

You’ll find yourself sucking on your fingers afterward, unwilling to let a single trace of sweetness escape.

Whole Grilled Turbot

The main event is always the grilled fish — the anticipation starts the moment you spot the whole fish on the outdoor grill before you’ve even walked in.

It arrives trailing charcoal aroma. The back, belly, and fins are portioned out one by one. The back is firmer and cleaner, the belly rich and juicy, silky and delicate with a lingering sweetness, the charcoal scent wrapped around it just right. The skin looks plain and a little charred, but that thin layer holds an incredibly beautiful gelatinous texture.

It’s then finished with a sauce made from olive oil, vinegar, and the fish itself, adding a soft layer of freshness. “This is the one so many restaurants are curious about — our legendary secret sauce.”

Once the fillets are gone, the rest of the fish is not to be skipped either — from the rice-grain-sized bits of meat along the bone to the neck, cheeks, and jaw, every part of the same fish carries a completely different gelatin and tenderness. By the end, your mouth is left full of gelatin and a clean, sweet finish.

It’s the perfect balance of charcoal, fish, gelatin, and natural sweetness.

One fish, performing the entire role of a top-tier Buddha Jumps Over the Wall all on its own.

Cheese Ice Cream

Worth mentioning: the wine list here is genuinely worth digging into. Whether you want to start with a Txakoli, work seriously through a lineup of Spanish wines, or mix in something from elsewhere, there’s plenty of room to explore, and the prices are kind. Order a full bottle for two, dig into charcoal-grilled seafood — it’s about the best way to spend a lunch by a fishing harbor.

After lunch, while waiting for a taxi, take a stroll down to the sea and feel the wind off Getaria — the whole trip left us happy and sweet all over.

Elkano

Tuesday – Saturday

1-3:15 pm; 8:30-10:15 pm (Fri & Sat only)

restauranteelkano.com

Tasting menu €196++